The city which was the capital of Poland
Płock is one of the most important cities in Mazovia. Warsaw may be regarded as its younger sibling; Płock was a center of pagan worship already in 7th century C.E. and during the reign of Władysław Herman and Bolesława the Wry-mouthed (1079–1138) the city acted as the capital of Poland. The most glorious period of its history ended with the incorporation of Mazovia to the Crown. Destroyed by fires, epidemics and finally the Swedish Deluge Płock declined so much that in 18th century it had only a thousand inhabitants. In the next century the town became more important as an administrative center and began to grow again. A petrochemical plant was established on the outskirts of Płock in 1960s. It contributed to rapid acceleration of the economic development of the city and at the same time municipal authorities were faced with significant challenges in the field of environmental protection. In the years 1975-1998 Płock acted as the capital of the voivodeship. Today, the city with nearly 130 thousand residents is the largest one in western Mazovia and an important cultural center at the same time. Płock has its own symphony orchestra, which, apart from concerts at the highest artistic level, also implements a music promotion program for young people. In summer, from June to August, the entire city is filled up with music. Concerts of the Summer Music Festival are held in different places of the old part of Płock. The Symphony Orchestra shows its highest artistic class by presenting a variety of musical forms: from the canon of classical music to jazz compositions, operetta and modern popular music. Also outdoor performances prepared by the Płock Symphony Orchestra and the Drama Theatre enjoy a great success among viewers (www.posorkiestra.pl).
The most precious monuments of the city are located on the escarpment on the Vistula River, known as ‘Wzgórze Tumskie' (Cathedral Hill). The high bank of the river offers an amazing view on wide waters of the Vistula River (due to the dam in Włocławek). On the other side of the River is the district Radziwie with the largest river shipyard in Poland. On the horizon you can see the dark patch of forests of the Gostynin Lake District. Overlooking the Wzgórze Tumskie (Cathedral Hill) are the Gothic towers of the Castle of Mazovian Dukes of 14th century. The lower tower is called a Noble Tower while the taller one, covered with the rounded Baroque dome is called the Clock Tower. At the foot on one of them archaeologists have discovered traces of a stone building which was probably a place of birth of the future King Bolesław the Wry-mouthed in 1085. The magnificent brick castle was partially damaged in 16th century as a result of the collapse of the slope. After reconstruction it acted as the Benedictine monastery until the period of Polish-Swedish Wars. The building was rebuilt repeatedly. At present, the former Benedictine Abbey houses the Diocesan Muzeum (the second part of the Museum is located in the neo-Gothic building of early 20th century at ul. Tumska 3a). The variety of exhibits is stunning. Apart from the rich collections of paintings and sculptures from various periods the visitor can see ancient, intricately decorated chasubles, a unique collection of kontusz sashes and the valuable incunabula and old prints.
It is the house at ul. Tumska 8 where the Mazovian Museum is located. The museum has a unique collection of Art Nouveau and this is what attracts visitors the most. The collection includes furniture, everyday objects, ceramics, glass and jewelry. The Museum also has a rich collection of Polish paintings of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries including works of Julian Fałat, Juliusz Kossak and Józef Mehoffer. Also a historic granary at ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego belongs to the Museum; it exhibits an interesting ethnographic collection from Mazovia.
The Płock Cathedral is located at Wzgórze Tumskie (Cathedral Hill). The temple was erected as soon as 12th century, but it had been repeatedly reconstructed. In the years 1901–1903 Stefan Szyller restored the sixteenth-century appearance of the church. Thus the Cathedral is a Romanesque-style building, it features Gothic towers, gables and buttresses and a Renaissance dome with a lantern. The rich painting decoration of the interior was performed by Władysław Drapiewski and Czesław Idźkiewicz based on the design by Szyller. The furnishings of the church come from various periods. A copy of the Romanesque Płock Door of 1154 founded by Bishop Aksander z Malone can be seen in the porch. The original door was moved to the Cathedral of St. Sophia in Novgorod, where it is located to this day. Reliefs adorning dozens of red bronze plates depict scenes from the Holy Bible, allegorical images and also the image of the founder and performers. The Płock Cathedral is not only an important Catholic temple, but also a monument of the Polish state: the Royal Chapel is the burying place of Kings Władysław Herman and Bolesław the Wry-mouthed and numerous Dukes of Mazowia and of Płock.
The unique interiors of the Cathedral Basilica host important artistic events. The lovers of music fascinated with medieval religious music and ancient religious songs are attracted by the Musica Simplex Festival held in April. The program of concerts includes liturgical chants including Gregorian chants which enjoy increasing popularity. The Płock Festival brings together great performers including Tomasz Stańko, Marcel Peres, the ‘Węgajty' Countryside Theatre Schola and the Dominican Fathers’ Gregorian Schola of Warsaw. In 2006, a guest of the Festival was Roberto Colavalle, the cantor of the Sistine Chapel (www.pokis.pl). At the turn of April and May three evenings in the Basilica are devoted to choir singing. The International Festival ‘Płock Days of Choral Music’ attracts the best national and foreign performers. The event is organized and hosted by the Pueri Cantores Plocenses Cathedral Choir of Boys and Men (www.pcpplock.pl). Also the Puellae Cantores Plocenses Cathedral Choir of Girls was established in 2006.
Every Tuesday from mid-May to mid-June the Płock Cathedral hosts organ concerts. Prominent Polish and foreign performers play the old organs regarded as the best and the largest romantic instruments in Poland.
At the rear of Wzgórze Tumskie (Cathedral Hill) is the charming Płock Old Town. Several of its streets were transformed into pedestrian precincts encouraging walking. At the Narutowicz square, distinctive in shape, is the former Palace of Płock Bishops. Currently it houses the court of justice. Right nearby is the classicistic Dom pod Opatrznością (House under Providence) designed by Jakub Kubicki. Also the building of the former guardhouse from 1837 is classicistic in style. At the intersection of streets ul. Tumska and ul. Mostowa stands the late-Gothic Dom pod Trąbami (House under Trumpets); it was constructed using the material from fragments of the city wall. Ul. Grodzka street with classicistic houses transformed into a nice pedestrian precinct leads towards the Old Market Square. You should turn to a parallel street, ul. Małachowskiego, where the oldest Polish school established in 1180 at the collegiate church of St. Michael is located. Buildings of the Stanisław Małachowski Secondary School consists of the Gothic tower of the former collegiate church, the Romanesque and Gothic wing, former Jesuit wing of 17th century and a pavilion of 20th century.
The Old Market Square in Płock is a rectangular square with houses from 19th century. The northern frontage is occupied by the classicistic City Hall built in the years 1824–27 on the basis of the design by Jakub Kubicki. Some interesting people were associated with the Płock Market Square. The writer and composer, Ernst Amadeus Hoffmann (1776–1822), known primarily as the author of ‘The Nutcracker' lived in the so-called Berlin House under no. 8. And in the House of the Guardian Angel the Blessed Sister Faustina Kowalska experienced her first revelation on 22nd September 1831.
Every year on the anniversary of the Polish entry into the European Union a European Picnic is held in the Old Market Square. In addition to performances of folk groups from partner cities the culture of individual EU member states is presented. The culmination of the picnic is a concert of a Polish pop star.
An important place on the cultural map of the city is the beach on the Vistula River. The beach is the place where a unique International Gypsy Festival is held with performances of the best Polish and foreign Gypsy groups. The award winning ROMEN Artistic Gypsy Group is the host of the evening. On the last weekend of July fans of electronic music meet at the same beach. During the three-day AUDIORIVER Festival they participate non-stop in concerts and DJ shows. One can listen to many musical forms: ranging from dance music, to hip-hop, experimental music and abstract laptop sounds (www.audioriver.pl). A few days SkArPa Festival dedicated to Stefan Themerson, a poet and an essayist born in Płock is held in late September. In addition to lectures and movie shows the program of the festival includes workshops, exhibitions, performances and concerts.
There is some indication that the best month for the visit in Płock is June. Fun is what reigns in the whole city during the Days of the History of Płock traditionally held on the first weekend of June. Colorful processions move on streets of the Old Town and local musicians, actors, artists and writers participate in numerous shows, concerts and exhibitions. At Wzgórze Tumskie (Cathedral Hill) the time goes back several hundred years; one can see secrets of medieval craftsmen and watch, with bated breath, the struggles of medieval knights and crossbowmen. In turn the Old Market Square is in the undivided possession of contemporary artists. The Market has already hosted such music stars as Alphaville, Brainstorm and Kim Wilde (www.pokis.pl).
In short, interesting events and valuable monuments make Płock a city worth staying for longer. Hotels in Płock can also be an excellent starting point for excursions to many attractive places around.
Muzeum Mazowieckie (Mazovian Museum), ul. Tumska 2, phone: (24) 262 44 92
www.muzeumplock.art.pl
Muzeum Diecezjalne (Diocesan Museum), ul. Tumska 3a, phone: (24) 262 26 23
www.mdplock.pl
